Processing Times & Underwhelming Results

Understanding Processing Times

One of the biggest mistakes lash artists make when learning Korean lash lifting is treating the processing times on the product packaging as strict rules.They’re not.

The timings provided by manufacturers are recommendations only. They are designed to be a general guide, but they do not take into consideration the individual characteristics of the lashes sitting in front of you.

Every client’s lashes are different.

Factors such as lash thickness, lash density, lash health, previous chemical treatments, resistance levels, and even environmental conditions can all impact how quickly or slowly the lashes process.

This is why I don’t rely solely on the timings written on the packaging, and it’s one of the biggest reasons my lifts are able to achieve such strong, consistent results.

Many lash artists follow the packet timings exactly because they are afraid of overprocessing. The result is often underprocessed lashes that never fully soften, which leads to weak lifts, inconsistent results, poor curl retention, and clients feeling underwhelmed with their outcome.

This is particularly important when working with Korean lash lifting products and cysteamine based systems.

Unlike traditional lash lifting solutions, which work very quickly and often have stricter processing windows, cysteamine based products work much more gradually. This slower processing action is one of the reasons they are considered gentler on the lashes, but it also means that many clients require significantly longer processing times than what is suggested on the packaging.

I have personally processed Step 1 for 18-20 minutes on some clients. According to many product instructions, this would be considered severe overprocessing, yet those clients achieved beautiful, healthy lifts because the lashes simply required more time to reach the correct level of softening.

The key is understanding that we are not timing the solution, We are timing the lashes.

How I Process Step 1

Rather than applying the solution and waiting for a fixed amount of time, I set an initial timer and then assess the lashes throughout the process.

As a general guide:

• Fine lashes: Check earlier, around 6-8 minutes.
• Average lashes: Check around 8 minutes.
• Thick or resistant lashes: Check around 10 minutes.

Once I reach my first check point, I assess the softness of the lashes.

If they are not ready, I simply reset another timer for 1-2 minutes and check again.

I continue this process until the lashes have reached the correct level of softening.

What Are You Looking For?

The only reason to remove Step 1 is because the lashes are ready.

Not because the timer says so.

When the lashes are fully softened, they will move very easily when brushed with your tool or brush. You should be able to direct them in different directions with very little resistance.

The lashes should feel flexible, soft, and easy to manipulate. This is your indication that Step 1 has completed its job.

When you start step 2 , the lashes should be softened enough that when you begin repositioning them onto the shield they adhere easily without much effort and stay in place.

If you are finding that the lashes are difficult to wrap, keep lifting away from the shield, won’t stay in position, or require excessive force to hold them down, they often need additional processing time.

This is one of the biggest causes of weak lifts and underwhelming results.

The lashes simply weren’t softened enough before moving onto the next step.

Why So Many Lash Lifts Look Underwhelming

If your lash lifts are consistently underwhelming it could be 1 of these 3 things or all.

• Step 1 not on long enough and hasnt softened the lashes enough
• Incorrect shield type for client and or incorrect size for the client. (never have the tips over the peak of the shield as this will cause kinks in your result which looks off and causes a messy growout.
• The wrapping of lashes to the rod is not neat and separated perfectly. Often this step is rushed, but plays such a big part in how the lashes look at the end. Take your time here.
• More often than not, the lashes simply haven’t softened enough during Step 1.
• This is one of the biggest differences between following a timer and understanding the lifting process.

What About Step 2?

The same principle applies to Step 2.

The timings on the packaging should be used as a guide only.

Step 2 should remain on the lashes until the restructuring process is complete, not simply until a timer ends.

Always assess the lashes rather than relying solely on manufacturer timings.

Protecting the Lash Tips

While I process Step 1 for as long as necessary on the body of the lash, I do not leave the solution on the tips for the entire processing time.

The tips are much finer and soften significantly faster than the rest of the lash.

For this reason, I apply only a small amount of solution to the tips and typically remove it after approximately 4-8 minutes.

This is usually around halfway through the processing time.

This allows the tips to soften sufficiently without becoming overprocessed, while still allowing the stronger base and mid-section of the lash to continue processing as needed.

Remember

• The timer does not determine when the lashes are ready.
• The lashes determine when the lashes are ready.
• Use the packet timings as a starting point, assess the lashes regularly throughout the process, and only remove the solution once the lashes have reached the correct level of softening.
• This approach will give you stronger lifts, more consistent results, and significantly reduce the risk of underprocessing your clients’ lashes.

Please also take note that room tempreature can also affect how your solutions work. Your room should be 21-23 degrees for optimal results. If your room is too cold it will slow down your processing times. If its too hot it will speed up the times and risk over processing.

If your clients eyes water during the treatment and it touches the solution if you are doing step 1 on the eyepad the lift will not process properly, you will need to remove the solution, wipe the water, and re apply fresh solution. when you do this you will need to adjust your timing, by checking if the lashes are ready before you take the solution off.

***Ensure that you remove all products & solutions after each step to ensure there is no over processing. I thoroughly remove step 1 with a cotton tip for the bulk of the solution, then use a wet cotton pad to remove the remaining, then use regen in-between. Follow for remaining steps , you can also choose to wash with a friendly cleanser at the end of the treatment.